DYING LIGHT ONLY SAVES TO VOLTAGE SERIES

The 'can' one is to make the DC voltage flat and so is a filter to that purpose. The candy one is to keep 'power spikes' out of the light bulb. The candy-looking one is bipolar and is on the AC side. The round 'can' one is polarized, and as you can see is on the DC side of the rectifier. When you look at the board you will see a rectifier chip and a couple of bigger capacitors (one looks like a 'can', and one looks like a roundish piece of candy). Once it is all out, look it over to see if you see any physical damage (not likely because it is enclosed). Open the bulb by snapping off the clear cover and pushing out the electronics boards using a small pick so the boards 'pop out'.

This is a good place to state 'do not do this with the bulb screwed into the light socket, because you can get shocked! Do not plug in the bulb until it is put back together and you are sure nothing is shorting out.

Replacement LED chips (sell on eBay for like $ chips (like in this picture).

Pick to move stuff around and serve as tiny fingers.

Multi-meter that has the 'Diode check modality'.

The second picture is a list of the parts and tools you need to accomplish this project. We will check these components out (power supply), and then look at the actual LEDs (parts that are usually broken on this kind of light bulb). In the bulb is a rectifier, a load resister and some filtering capacitors that give the LEDs a DC voltage to live on.

DYING LIGHT ONLY SAVES TO VOLTAGE SERIES

As in any series circuit, the LEDs draw a current for each unit in the circuit and drop a voltage across each one as it emits light, and hopefully not heat. As with an series circuit, if a component breaks in the 'chain', the unit will not work anymore (think Christmas lights here). These bulbs are basically a bunch of little LED chips placed in series on a board and driven by a rectified AC circuit.

Dying light only saves to voltage